Room-by-Room Home Energy Audit Checklist
A thorough, printable room-by-room energy audit checklist to help homeowners identify air leaks, insulation gaps, and inefficient systems, and prioritize fixes that cut utility bills year-round.
Room-by-Room Home Energy Audit Checklist
Walk through each area of your home and mark items as Done (✓), Needs Attention (!), or Not Applicable (N/A). Use the Notes column to record measurements, product needs, or contractor quotes.
1. Attic & Roof
| Item | Done | Notes (measurement, cost, action needed) |
|---|---|---|
| Measure existing insulation depth with a ruler; note R-value (target R-38 to R-60 depending on climate zone) | ||
| Check insulation coverage is even across entire floor, with no compressed or missing areas near eaves | ||
| Inspect attic hatch/door, verify it is insulated, weatherstripped, and seals tightly when closed | ||
| Inspect all attic bypasses: gaps around top plates, plumbing stacks, wiring penetrations, and chimneys, seal with fire-rated caulk or foam | ||
| Check recessed light fixtures in ceiling below attic, IC-rated and air-sealed? Unsealed "can lights" are major air leakage points | ||
| Inspect attic ventilation (soffit vents, ridge vent, gable vents): clear of insulation blockage, no signs of moisture or mold | ||
| Inspect roof from exterior, missing, curling, or damaged shingles that could allow moisture intrusion into insulation | ||
| Check HVAC ducts running through attic space, insulated to at least R-8, joints sealed with mastic or foil tape (not standard duct tape) | ||
| Check exhaust fans (bathroom, kitchen) are vented to exterior, not dumping warm moist air into attic space |
2. Windows & Exterior Doors
| Item | Done | Notes (location, product needed, priority) |
|---|---|---|
| Inspect weatherstripping on all exterior doors, compress test (strip should compress fully against door edge with no gaps) | ||
| Check door sweeps on all exterior doors, no daylight visible at bottom, sweep contacts threshold evenly across full width | ||
| Inspect door frame caulking (interior and exterior): cracked, missing, or pulled-away caulk should be removed and replaced | ||
| Check mail slot, pet door, and doggie doors, proper insulation flap present and sealing correctly? | ||
| Inspect window glazing: single-pane, double-pane, or triple-pane? Single-pane windows should have storm windows or interior window film applied in winter | ||
| Check window frame caulking on interior and exterior, especially corners and where frame meets siding or drywall | ||
| Operate all windows, do they close and lock fully? Gaps when closed indicate warped frames or worn weatherstripping | ||
| Check for condensation between window panes (double/triple pane): indicates failed seal and loss of inert gas insulation | ||
| Inspect garage door weatherstripping and bottom seal, full contact with floor, no light visible around perimeter |
3. Walls & Insulation
| Item | Done | Notes (location, R-value, action needed) |
|---|---|---|
| Remove an outlet or switch cover on an exterior wall, check for insulation behind it and test for drafts with a tissue or incense stick | ||
| Inspect wall insulation type and estimated R-value (2x4 wall = R-11 to R-15; 2x6 wall = R-19 to R-21 if fully filled) | ||
| Check exterior wall penetrations (hose bibs, dryer vents, cable/pipe entry points): sealed with caulk or foam from exterior? | ||
| Inspect fireplace damper, closes tightly? Install a chimney balloon or damper clamp if damper is warped or damaged | ||
| Check fireplace surround, hearth, and ash pit clean-out door for gaps or missing gaskets | ||
| Inspect knee walls in finished attic spaces, insulated on the attic-side face, not just the sloped ceiling above? | ||
| Inspect rim/band joists at foundation level (where floor framing meets foundation wall): typically uninsulated and a major heat loss zone | ||
| Check for cold spots on interior wall surfaces in winter, can indicate missing or settled insulation in wall cavities |
4. Basement & Crawlspace
| Item | Done | Notes (moisture reading, R-value, repair priority) |
|---|---|---|
| Inspect basement rim joists, insulated with rigid foam (R-10 minimum) and air-sealed with spray foam around all edges? | ||
| Check basement walls, insulated? Uninsulated concrete or block walls are a significant heat sink in cold climates | ||
| Inspect basement windows, single-pane? Cracked or missing glazing? Check weatherstripping and operation | ||
| Check for visible moisture, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), or mold on basement walls, indicates water intrusion affecting insulation | ||
| Inspect crawlspace vapor barrier, 6-mil poly sheeting covering entire ground, seams overlapped 12", edges sealed to walls? | ||
| Inspect crawlspace insulation, faced batts installed between floor joists with vapor barrier facing up (toward heated space)? | ||
| Check crawlspace vents, are they open (vented crawlspace) or intentionally sealed (conditioned crawlspace)? Determine which approach is correct for your climate and confirm it is applied consistently | ||
| Inspect all plumbing pipes in basement/crawlspace for insulation, especially pipes near exterior walls or in unconditioned spaces (freeze risk + heat loss) | ||
| Check sump pump pit cover, is it sealed to reduce moisture evaporation and heat loss into conditioned basement space? |
5. HVAC System (Heating & Cooling)
| Item | Done | Notes (filter size, service date, contractor info) |
|---|---|---|
| Replace air filter, note filter size, current MERV rating, and date replaced (replace every 1–3 months depending on MERV and usage) | ||
| Record last professional HVAC tune-up date, should be serviced annually (cooling in spring, heating in fall) | ||
| Inspect all supply and return duct registers, clean, unobstructed by furniture or rugs, and delivering adequate airflow? | ||
| Check visible ductwork in attic, basement, and crawlspace for disconnected sections, crushed flex duct, and unsealed joints | ||
| Inspect duct insulation in unconditioned spaces, should be at minimum R-8; look for tears, compression, or missing insulation | ||
| Test thermostat operation, verify heating and cooling modes, check battery, confirm programmable or smart schedule is set correctly | ||
| Check HVAC equipment age, note furnace/air handler and AC/heat pump model and installation year (typical lifespan: furnace 15–20 yrs, AC 10–15 yrs) | ||
| Inspect condensate drain line on AC/heat pump, clear of algae or blockage; pan is dry with no signs of past overflow | ||
| Check outdoor AC/heat pump condenser unit, coils clean, fins straight, 2-ft clearance around unit, no debris accumulation | ||
| Inspect chimney flue and heat exchanger on gas furnace, no visible cracks, corrosion, or signs of combustion spillage (soot around furnace cabinet) |
6. Water Heater
| Item | Done | Notes (model, age, temp reading, action needed) |
|---|---|---|
| Record water heater type (gas tank, electric tank, heat pump, tankless), model, capacity, and installation year | ||
| Check thermostat setting, factory default is often 140°F; DOE recommends 120°F to reduce energy use and scalding risk | ||
| Inspect water heater tank for rust, corrosion, sediment buildup at base, or signs of leaking, tank age over 10–12 years warrants replacement planning | ||
| Check anode rod, should be inspected every 3 years; sacrificial rod prevents tank corrosion and extends tank life significantly | ||
| Inspect first 6 feet of hot and cold water pipes connected to water heater, insulated with foam pipe wrap (R-3 to R-4 saves energy and reduces wait time for hot water)? | ||
| Check water heater insulation blanket, older tanks (especially electric) benefit from an insulating jacket if the tank feels warm to the touch | ||
| Test temperature-pressure relief (TPR) valve, lever should flip and release water when lifted; sticky or corroded valves are a safety hazard and should be replaced | ||
| If water heater is in unconditioned space (garage, unheated basement): confirm tank and pipes are insulated to prevent standby heat loss | ||
| Flush sediment from tank, connect hose to drain valve and flush 1–2 gallons; heavy sediment reduces efficiency and shortens tank life |
7. Appliances & Lighting
| Item | Done | Notes (model age, wattage, upgrade needed) |
|---|---|---|
| Audit all lighting, replace any remaining incandescent or halogen bulbs with LED equivalents (LEDs use 75–80% less energy, last 15–25x longer) | ||
| Check refrigerator age and condition, coils dusty? Door gaskets sealing fully? Units over 15 years old may use 2–3x the energy of a current ENERGY STAR model | ||
| Verify refrigerator temperature (35–38°F) and freezer temperature (0–5°F): too cold wastes energy, too warm wastes food | ||
| Check washer and dryer, front-load or high-efficiency top-load washers use 50% less water and energy; dryer lint trap and exhaust duct clean and clear? | ||
| Inspect dryer exhaust duct, rigid metal duct preferred (not foil accordion); exterior vent flap opens freely when dryer runs and closes when off? | ||
| Check dishwasher, use "air dry" or "energy saver dry" mode; water temperature adequate (120°F at tap, run hot water before starting cycle)? | ||
| Identify phantom loads / standby power, TVs, game consoles, cable boxes, chargers, and desktop computers drawing power when "off"; use smart power strips or unplug when not in use | ||
| Inspect second refrigerator or chest freezer (garage, basement): older units in unconditioned hot garages can be extremely inefficient; consider replacing or eliminating | ||
| Check home office and entertainment equipment, enable power management/sleep settings; monitor and desktop PC left on 24/7 can cost $50–$150/year to run | ||
| Check exterior lighting, are fixtures LED? Is dusk-to-dawn or motion-sensing control installed to avoid all-night operation? |
8. Overall Observations & Priority Action List
| Finding / Issue Identified | Priority (H/M/L) | Est. Cost / Target Date |
|---|---|---|
Notes & Comments
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I do a DIY home energy audit without professional equipment?
A DIY home energy audit starts with a systematic room-by-room inspection using a checklist like this one. You can check for drafts by holding a lit incense stick or thin piece of tissue near windows, door frames, outlet covers, and baseboards on a windy day, movement indicates air leakage. Inspect insulation depth in your attic with a ruler, look for gaps around pipes and wires penetrating walls, and check your HVAC filter and ductwork for obvious leaks. For a more thorough assessment, a licensed energy auditor can use a blower door test and thermal imaging camera to find hidden leaks you can't detect visually.
What are the biggest sources of energy waste in a typical home?
Heating and cooling account for roughly 40–50% of a typical home's energy bill, making the HVAC system and building envelope (insulation, windows, doors, and air sealing) the highest-priority areas to address. Air leakage, gaps around windows, doors, plumbing penetrations, recessed lights, and attic hatches, is often the single largest fixable problem and can be corrected with weatherstripping, caulk, and spray foam at relatively low cost. Water heating is typically the second-largest energy expense, followed by appliances and lighting. Older refrigerators, electric resistance water heaters, and any remaining incandescent or halogen bulbs are common culprits worth replacing first for the fastest return on investment.
How often should I perform a home energy audit?
Most energy experts recommend a full home energy audit every 3–5 years, or any time you notice a significant unexplained increase in your utility bills. You should also do a targeted audit before and after major renovations, when replacing major appliances or HVAC equipment, or after buying a home, especially an older one. Seasonal spot-checks each fall and spring are also valuable: check weatherstripping on doors and windows, replace HVAC filters, inspect the attic hatch seal, and verify that your programmable or smart thermostat settings are optimized for the coming season.
What R-value of insulation do I need in my attic?
The recommended attic insulation R-value depends on your climate zone as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy. For most of the continental U.S., DOE recommends R-38 to R-60 in the attic, which translates to roughly 10–19 inches of blown fiberglass or cellulose. Homes in the coldest climate zones (Zone 6–8, such as Minnesota or Maine) should aim for R-49 to R-60, while homes in the deep South (Zone 1–2) may only need R-30 to R-38. You can measure your existing insulation with a ruler, if it's below the recommended level for your zone, adding more is typically one of the highest-ROI home efficiency improvements available.