Seed Saving Log
A printable log for tracking saved seed varieties, harvest dates, drying and processing notes, germination test results, and long-term storage conditions. Keep your seed bank organized and viable.
Why a seed-saving log changes results
Seed-saving without records is gardening on hope. You remember which beans were exceptional this season, but you don't remember which row, which plant, which year, or how the seeds were dried. By next spring, the lineage is gone, and you're trusting a glass jar of unlabeled brown shapes. A simple log fixes that, and once you've kept one for two seasons it pays back permanently: you start selecting from your strongest plants, predicting germination accurately, and pruning low-viability stock before it crowds your seed bank.
How to fill it out
Use one row per variety per harvest year. Four pieces of information matter most:
- Variety name and pollination type. Open-pollinated (OP) and heirloom varieties reproduce true to type. F1 hybrids do not. Mark hybrid lines clearly so you use them up rather than re-saving from them.
- Source plant notes. Track which plant the seeds came from. Was it the earliest, healthiest, most disease-resistant? Selection over generations is where your stock gets better, and the log is the only thing that lets you do it deliberately.
- Storage location and conditions. Temperature and humidity drive viability decay. A jar in the kitchen drawer dies faster than the same jar in a cool basement. Use the Storage Conditions table to spot-check both, and aim for under 50°F and under 50% relative humidity.
- Germination test results. Run a 10-seed test annually for any variety more than two years old. Record the rate, then act on it: discard or compost anything below 60%, and double-up your spring sowing rate for anything between 60 and 80%.
When the log earns its keep
The first season you keep it, the log feels like overhead. By the third spring, when you're staring at a dozen jars and trying to remember which 2024 lettuce variety was the bolt-resistant one, it becomes the difference between confident planting and starting over from a seed catalog. Most experienced seed savers keep notes for decades. The columns here are designed to be portable to a binder you'll still be reading ten years from now.
Seed Saving Log
Record one row per variety per harvest year. Test germination annually for older seeds.
Seed Inventory
| Plant / Variety | Type (OP/Heirloom) | Harvest Year | Qty Saved | Storage Location | Est. Viability (Years) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Harvest & Processing Notes
| Plant / Variety | Harvest Date | Drying Method | Days Dried | Cleaning Method | Storage Container |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Germination Test Results
| Plant / Variety | Harvest Year | Test Date | Seeds Tested | Seeds Germinated | Rate % | Action |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Storage Conditions Log
| Storage Location | Container Type | Temp (°F) | Humidity % | Desiccant Used? | Last Checked |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Seed Trades & Donations
| Date | Variety Given / Received | Trade Partner | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
Notes
Frequently Asked Questions
Which vegetables are easiest for beginners to save seeds from?
Start with self-pollinating crops that reliably produce true-to-type seeds: tomatoes, lettuce, beans, and peas are the easiest. They pollinate themselves before the flower opens, reducing cross-pollination risk. Avoid saving seeds from F1 hybrid varieties, those plants are bred for specific traits that do not reliably pass to the next generation. Look for open-pollinated (OP) or heirloom varieties.
How do I properly dry and store saved seeds?
After harvesting, clean seeds and spread them in a single layer on a non-stick surface (paper plates work well) in a warm, well-ventilated location away from direct sunlight. Dry for 1–4 weeks until seeds snap rather than bend. Store in paper envelopes or small glass jars with a desiccant packet in a cool, dark, dry location. Label with variety name, harvest year, and source plant notes.
What information should I record in a seed saving log?
Record the variety name, species, source (which plant was harvested from), harvest date, any notable characteristics of the parent plant, the drying method, storage container type and location, estimated quantity, and germination test results if performed. This data helps you select the best performing plants for seed saving over multiple seasons.
How do I prevent unwanted cross-pollination?
Most home gardens grow several varieties of the same species, so cross-pollination control matters. Self-pollinating crops (tomatoes, lettuce, beans, peas) rarely cross. Insect-pollinated crops (squash, cucumber, melons, brassicas) and wind-pollinated crops (corn, beets, spinach) cross readily. Three options for clean seed: grow only one variety per species in a season, separate varieties by distance (50 to 800 feet depending on crop), or hand-pollinate and bag flowers before they open. Note in your log which method you used so next year's results are interpretable.
What temperature and humidity should I store saved seeds at?
The seed-saving rule of thumb is the "100 rule": temperature in degrees Fahrenheit plus relative humidity in percent should sum to less than 100. A cool, dry basement at 60°F and 35% RH (sum: 95) works. A kitchen pantry at 75°F and 55% RH (sum: 130) does not. For multi-year storage, a refrigerator at 40°F or a freezer at 0°F dramatically extends viability. Always include a desiccant packet, and let cold-stored seeds warm back to room temperature in a sealed container before opening to prevent condensation damage.
When should I throw out old seeds?
Run a germination test before deciding. Tomato, brassica, and bean seeds reliably last 4 to 6 years; onion, parsnip, and sweet corn drop off within 1 to 2 years. If a 10-seed germination test falls below 60%, that variety has earned compost rather than another season in the seed bank. Keep the entry in your log even after discarding so you remember the variety stored poorly and can avoid replanting it under the same conditions.